The Kings of Aragon
Our journey across Northern Spain took us in a easterly direction touching parts of the Camino de Santiago. At the town of Estella we found a free car parking space (always a bonus) and walked to the historic part of the town. A lovely lady in the tourist office gave us a walking map showing the historic sites of the town. There were, appropriately, for a town on the Camino a lot of old churches and religious buildings but also a 15th century former palace.
We walked part of the Camino and followed a trail through the older part of town visiting one of the churches and absorbing the atmosphere of the place. Although very old Estella felt like a normal bustling town.
A park offered some shade and respite from the intense sun and I saw some hoopoes again - such strange looking little birds.
After lunch taken by the old bridge that crosses the river we climbed up to an old church that was now an interpretation centre with an audio guide that detailed the history of the early kings of Aragon. It was an incredibly detailed commentary and I confess I got a bit lost with the dynastic complexities of the Aragonese royal family from the 1100's onwards but the centre also showed how the different pilgrim routes from France came together in different places in Spain.
We carried on, stopping at another small town on the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina. A beautiful 11th century bridge crosses the river on the pilgrim route. The town itself was small with a peaceful old central street and a main square being readied for an upcoming festival - which we assumed would include a bull run, judging by the wooden barricades that had been erected.
The last part of our journey took us through rolling countryside, small towns and hills. Our destination was the hilltop village of Sos del Rey Catolico, visible from miles away and named because it was the birthplace of King Fernando of Aragon in 1452. Our hotel was a few hundred meters from the centre and we set off to explore. It appeared very little had changed since King Fernando's birth. Narrow cobbled streets and steps up and down passageways with a few bars and shops led to the village walls. Situated on a hilltop the village looks over the rolling hills and farmland of Navarra, with the Pyrenees in the distance. Our hotel room offered a wonderful view of the village and the surroundings as did our table in the hotel restaurant where we had a three course meal that started with excellent gazpacho.
From Sos we had a shortish leg of our journey to our next destination, Jaca so with no time pressures I planned a detour, taking a scenic route cross country towards an old monastery at San Juan de la Pena. This turned out to be a bit of an adventure. At first we drove through gentle hills, along empty roads. We saw a large grey fox in a field that seemed as surprised to see us as we were it. Birds of prey circled overhead and then the road went through forest until we came to a strange, virtually abandoned village, Ruesta, with the ruins of a church and old buildings but still one or two people living there.
We followed the road and google maps indicated we were a mile or so from the main road - but progress was stalled by barricades and sign indicating the road was closed. I guessed a bridge over the river had collapsed in the recent floods. There were no suggested detour signs and not wanting to retrace our steps I consulted the map and plotted a tortuous route that I hoped would get us to where we needed to be. Driving for mile after empty mile on increasingly potholed roads, seeing no other traffic and no people other than an occasional bemused farmer we did start to wonder where we'd end up. Eventually, having rejected some of Googles suggestions (that would have taken us off tarmac) we found a road and bridge that took us to the main road. From there it was a short but spectacular drive up to San Juan de la Pena a 1000 meters up in the mountains.
San Juan de la Pena is the site of two monasteries. A 17th century building was created after a fire damaged the older monastery. Of the old monastery parts survive, including a church built in 920 AD. The old monastery is built into and out of the cliff face(la pena) and is quite breathtaking to see.
It appears an organic structure, in harmony with the rock and pine forest surrounding it.
We paid for tickets to see the surviving rooms and cloisters. Legend has that in the 11th century the Holy Grail was kept in the chapel - which now has a replica. Of greater authenticity is the Romanesque cloister with surviving capitals dating from the 12th century that illustrate parts of the bible. Those that survive are well preserved and fascinating. It also has a neo classical Royal Pantheon with the tombs of several early Aragonese king including Ramiro I and Sancho.
The drive back down offered the chance to pull in at a few view points that gave us fantastic panoramic views across to the Pyrenees.
It wasn't long before we arrived at our next temporary home, the attractive city of Jaca which was baking in 30 degree heat. We waited for it to cool down a little before exploring the historic city centre and getting something to eat. Jaca was a pleasant city with another Romanesque cathedral which we has a quick look around. It was pretty dark inside and lighting was on a meter. A euro bought about 5 minutes of illumination - even 'let their be light' muttered quietly to myself didn't seem to work - but fortunately for us someone kept feeding the meter for a while. The lights going out seemed to be our prompt to exit.
We chose a restaurant and had a fixed price three course meal, with complimentary croquette appetiser plus a half bottle of house wine + water and a free dessert wine and almond biscuit all for €14 each. Feeling full we walked around the other main historic site in Jaca, the star shaped Citadel. It's still in partial use by the military and the walls are surrounded by a deep ditch in which we spotted a small herd of deer - presumably trained to guard the fortress!
With the sun setting it was time to return to our hotel and the blissful cool of a super efficient air conditioning system. Jaca was just an overnight stop for our next destination - the Pyrenees - but getting there had given us an insight into the history of this part of Spain and an unexpected introduction to the quieter country roads.
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| A Romanesque former palace in Estella |
We walked part of the Camino and followed a trail through the older part of town visiting one of the churches and absorbing the atmosphere of the place. Although very old Estella felt like a normal bustling town.
A park offered some shade and respite from the intense sun and I saw some hoopoes again - such strange looking little birds.
 |
| Hoopoe |
We carried on, stopping at another small town on the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina. A beautiful 11th century bridge crosses the river on the pilgrim route. The town itself was small with a peaceful old central street and a main square being readied for an upcoming festival - which we assumed would include a bull run, judging by the wooden barricades that had been erected.
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Puente la Reina |
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| Part of the Camino de Santiago at Puente la Reina |
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| Village square, Sos Del Rey Catolico |
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| Hotel view of Sos del Rey Catolico |
From Sos we had a shortish leg of our journey to our next destination, Jaca so with no time pressures I planned a detour, taking a scenic route cross country towards an old monastery at San Juan de la Pena. This turned out to be a bit of an adventure. At first we drove through gentle hills, along empty roads. We saw a large grey fox in a field that seemed as surprised to see us as we were it. Birds of prey circled overhead and then the road went through forest until we came to a strange, virtually abandoned village, Ruesta, with the ruins of a church and old buildings but still one or two people living there.
 |
| Mrs B contemplating a restoration job....in Ruesta |
We followed the road and google maps indicated we were a mile or so from the main road - but progress was stalled by barricades and sign indicating the road was closed. I guessed a bridge over the river had collapsed in the recent floods. There were no suggested detour signs and not wanting to retrace our steps I consulted the map and plotted a tortuous route that I hoped would get us to where we needed to be. Driving for mile after empty mile on increasingly potholed roads, seeing no other traffic and no people other than an occasional bemused farmer we did start to wonder where we'd end up. Eventually, having rejected some of Googles suggestions (that would have taken us off tarmac) we found a road and bridge that took us to the main road. From there it was a short but spectacular drive up to San Juan de la Pena a 1000 meters up in the mountains.
 |
| Lost in Spain....on the road to nowhere! |
It appears an organic structure, in harmony with the rock and pine forest surrounding it.
We paid for tickets to see the surviving rooms and cloisters. Legend has that in the 11th century the Holy Grail was kept in the chapel - which now has a replica. Of greater authenticity is the Romanesque cloister with surviving capitals dating from the 12th century that illustrate parts of the bible. Those that survive are well preserved and fascinating. It also has a neo classical Royal Pantheon with the tombs of several early Aragonese king including Ramiro I and Sancho.
 |
| San Juan de la Pena |
It wasn't long before we arrived at our next temporary home, the attractive city of Jaca which was baking in 30 degree heat. We waited for it to cool down a little before exploring the historic city centre and getting something to eat. Jaca was a pleasant city with another Romanesque cathedral which we has a quick look around. It was pretty dark inside and lighting was on a meter. A euro bought about 5 minutes of illumination - even 'let their be light' muttered quietly to myself didn't seem to work - but fortunately for us someone kept feeding the meter for a while. The lights going out seemed to be our prompt to exit.
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| Jaca cathedral before the lights went out..... |
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| The Citadel, Jaca |
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| A guard deer on patrol.... |
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