In The Footsteps of Pilgrims, Wine Lovers and Hemingway
Rioja, the next destination for our travels through Northern Spain is best known for its wine. Leaving Burgos on a slightly cloudy morning we headed eastwards towards the town that proclaims itself the 'capital' of Riojan wine production, Haro. By mid morning we'd arrived and parked a little way out of the centre. It is quite a small town with a compact old centre and attractive town square.
A few bodegas are located in the town but many are just on the edge and it was towards these we headed. As I was driving the car, tasting opportunities were rather limited. We did however visit the Cune, Bilbanais and Mugo bodegas, sidestepping a large cicada on the pavement between bodegas!
Muga was quite upmarket and expensive but we tasted their Crianza, a pleasant relatively young wine and left with a bottle to add to the growing collection of bottles in the car.
We were headed to the 'capital' of La Rioja, Logrono but before making our way there we made a detour to Matute. Our friends Ian and Juani used to own a home in this village, tucked away in the mountains, and had described it to us on many occasions. We thought as we were close by we'd see it for ourselves. Rural roads brought us to a sharp bend that was the road into the village itself. It was early afternoon, humid and starting to cloud over. A few villagers were drinking, laughing and talking in the bar on the village square (located next to the church) and were probably pondering what could possibly bring a couple with GB car number plates into their village. We walked up one of the lanes saying buenos dias (good day) to the few people we met until we'd climbed out of the village and were on a track that led up into the mountains.
Wildflowers and butterflies accompanied our steps but a few ominous rumbles of thunder and darkening skies meant we made the prudent decision to return to the car.
Within minutes of setting off driving a few spots of rain had appeared and by the time we'd arrived in Logrono a full on downpour was in progress. We found a free car park by the river and for the first time in the trip put on waterproofs to take our luggage to the hotel. We crossed the River Ebro, once again on the Camino de Santiago. Logrono is an important point on this pilgrims route and the receptionist assumed that with our rucksacks we were on a pilgrimage. I explained we were just travelers and with that we checked in and found our room. It was fairly dark but, most disturbingly smelt of drains. After running the air con full blast for 20 minutes and with no improvement I went to reception to explain we were not happy! The receptionist was terrific immediately offering us another room. We moved and found we'd been upgraded to a junior suite, with views over the river and of storks nesting on the building opposite, which was the hospital. I wasn't sure if they had a maternity unit - but there were at least four nests and multiple storks ready to assist with deliveries!
The rain wasn't going to stop so after a short while we put on our waterproofs and set out to explore the old city centre, walking up the old cobbled streets of the Camino route. Eventually we found ourselves by the Cathedral and took refuge in a bar. After a reviving drink (Mrs B. was back on the sangria) we carried on exploring for a bit before returning to the hotel to dry off.
Later in the evening, despite the weather, we went to explore the tapas bars that are clustered along and around one street, Calle Laurel. We worked our way from bar to bar, eating a portion and having a drink in each one until realising that small portions and multiple drinks add up - we were quite full!
As were were in Logrono for two nights I booked an English language winery tour at the Bodega Franco Espanola for our next full day. This was a fathers day gift from my daughters - a perfect present! The tour included a tasting and as I wasn't driving I could enjoy the experience. The tour started at 10.00 am so after breakfast we walked along the river towards the winery and then had a thoroughly informative and enjoyable tour. The winery was established in 1890 and been through various owners and had some notable past visitors including Ernest Hemingway. At around 10.45 the tasting began. We got to try three of their wines, including a Bordon gran reserva, all very generous measures, so by the time we left at 11.30 we were a little 'light headed'.
A generous sized bocadillo and coffee taken in a cafe by Paseo de Espolon helped restore some equilibrium. We took a look in a free art gallery that had some unexpected highlights - Picasso, Lichtenstein, Warhol as well as local artists.
The rain had now vanished and the clouds were starting to break after the storm of the previous 24 hours, promising a better evening. More tapas was taken in Calle Laurel - including a simple but sublime trio of mushrooms at Bar Soriano.
Finally to end our time in Logrono a walk by the banks of the Ebro, watching the sun set over the river and the hills to the West.
We'd had a fabulous time in La Rioja despite the wet weather but we had more miles to travel and more to discover as we headed further East towards the ancient kingdom of Aragon.
A few bodegas are located in the town but many are just on the edge and it was towards these we headed. As I was driving the car, tasting opportunities were rather limited. We did however visit the Cune, Bilbanais and Mugo bodegas, sidestepping a large cicada on the pavement between bodegas!
Muga was quite upmarket and expensive but we tasted their Crianza, a pleasant relatively young wine and left with a bottle to add to the growing collection of bottles in the car.
We were headed to the 'capital' of La Rioja, Logrono but before making our way there we made a detour to Matute. Our friends Ian and Juani used to own a home in this village, tucked away in the mountains, and had described it to us on many occasions. We thought as we were close by we'd see it for ourselves. Rural roads brought us to a sharp bend that was the road into the village itself. It was early afternoon, humid and starting to cloud over. A few villagers were drinking, laughing and talking in the bar on the village square (located next to the church) and were probably pondering what could possibly bring a couple with GB car number plates into their village. We walked up one of the lanes saying buenos dias (good day) to the few people we met until we'd climbed out of the village and were on a track that led up into the mountains.
Wildflowers and butterflies accompanied our steps but a few ominous rumbles of thunder and darkening skies meant we made the prudent decision to return to the car.
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| Matute village square |
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| The mountains above Matute |
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| Our hotel room view - with stork nest on top of Logrono hospital |
The rain wasn't going to stop so after a short while we put on our waterproofs and set out to explore the old city centre, walking up the old cobbled streets of the Camino route. Eventually we found ourselves by the Cathedral and took refuge in a bar. After a reviving drink (Mrs B. was back on the sangria) we carried on exploring for a bit before returning to the hotel to dry off.
Later in the evening, despite the weather, we went to explore the tapas bars that are clustered along and around one street, Calle Laurel. We worked our way from bar to bar, eating a portion and having a drink in each one until realising that small portions and multiple drinks add up - we were quite full!
As were were in Logrono for two nights I booked an English language winery tour at the Bodega Franco Espanola for our next full day. This was a fathers day gift from my daughters - a perfect present! The tour included a tasting and as I wasn't driving I could enjoy the experience. The tour started at 10.00 am so after breakfast we walked along the river towards the winery and then had a thoroughly informative and enjoyable tour. The winery was established in 1890 and been through various owners and had some notable past visitors including Ernest Hemingway. At around 10.45 the tasting began. We got to try three of their wines, including a Bordon gran reserva, all very generous measures, so by the time we left at 11.30 we were a little 'light headed'.
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| That's a lot of rioja! |
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| One of the old advertising posters for the bodega |
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| I really didn't purchase all of these bottles.... |
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| Sampling the product |
A generous sized bocadillo and coffee taken in a cafe by Paseo de Espolon helped restore some equilibrium. We took a look in a free art gallery that had some unexpected highlights - Picasso, Lichtenstein, Warhol as well as local artists.
The rain had now vanished and the clouds were starting to break after the storm of the previous 24 hours, promising a better evening. More tapas was taken in Calle Laurel - including a simple but sublime trio of mushrooms at Bar Soriano.
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| Calle Laurel |
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| Mushroom heaven.... |
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| Sunset over the River Ebro |
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