Au Retour du la France
The plan was to take a leisurely journey through France on our return to the UK. It didn't take long to cross from Spain to France at the border town of Puigcerdà and for a while the landscape flattened out. Before long though we climbed back through the mountains - on the French side of the Pyrenees, taking our time on the twisting turning roads. At a viewpoint we stopped to watch a train full of tourists make its way across a viaduct and then passed through Sainte-Eulalie which was obviously very popular as there were cars parked all along the road.
Eventually we left the mountains behind and the landscape became more typical of Southern France, dry, rocky outcrops, and, as we neared the sea, the lagoons outside Narbonne.
It was another very hot day, temperatures touching 34°c, so to break the journey we headed to the beach. Valras-Plage was a bustling little seaside town. The main pedestrian thoroughfare was lined with shops selling gifts, clothes and ice creams which opened on to a square on restaurants. Then the beach a flat expanse of sand on which thousands of holiday makers were basting themselves. I think if you like the sort of holiday that involves lying on a beach, getting a tan (or skin cancer) then this would be a great place. It was clean, and pleasant with a breeze that just about took the edge off the sun. I have never been one for sunbathing so the attractions of Valras-Plage were somewhat limited, but the marina set by the lagoon was quite picturesque.
After a short while we felt we'd exhausted the possibilities that the seaside could offer and drove inland to the old city of Beziers. I knew very little about the city but it turned out to be a delightful place with a cathedral, panoramic views, lots of history and quirky old streets.
Finally we arrived in Montpellier. We had an Airbnb apartment for a couple of nights and after unpacking we found a supermarket about 10 minutes walk away and got some essential food supplies (cheese, wine) so we could eat in. We were located on the edge of a new district called Antigone, with neoclassical architecture. Our apartment was sandwiched between the regional office of the Occitan government and a brand new apartment block with cantilevered balconies called L'Arbre Blanc (white tree). Not being the Prince of Wales I quite like contemporary architecture as long as it results in buildings that enhance the built environment. The architects responsible for Antigone had created a very impressive series of urban spaces. Our apartment and many of the other buildings border the River Lez, so after a light meal we took a short walk along the river bank, spotting a solitary egret on a small weir.
After breakfast the next day we walked into the centre of Montpellier, arriving at Place de la Comedie, a large open square with classical French buildings. Lined by restaurants an opera house and statue of the Three Graces stood at one end with various streets leading off.
We wandered through shady streets in the general direction of the cathedral, admiring the street art and quirky little lanes.
We had a quick look inside the cathedral which was impressive outside but the interior didn't leave any lasting impressions.
Near the cathedral was what is reckoned to be one of Western Europe's oldest medical schools. In 1180, the lord of the city, Guilhem VIII, proclaimed that “anyone, no matter their religion or roots, could teach medicine in Montpellier". It is still teaching medicine to this day. We had a sneak peek through the entrance doors. No-one was around but we thought best not to push our luck and left quietly - nobody the wiser.
Promenade de Peyrou was a lovely esplanade dating back to 1716, with a water tower and aqueduct also from the eighteenth century.
The views over the city from this vantage point were especially good. We walked back by Montpellier's Arc de Triomphe, a mini version, built in 1691. The sun washed white stone gave Montpellier's historic centre a lovely feel - but it was very hot. We made a sensible decision to head indoors - to the Fabre Museum. This is a very old art museum with a permanent collection of mainly French artists. It also had a large retrospective of Montpellier's own primary artist, Vincent Bioulès, who has been prolific and worked in many styles since the late 60's. It's always entertaining visiting any modern art exhibition with Mrs B. She is what one might describe as a traditionalist, so any abstract work gets dismissed as 'anyone could do that'.
After all this art we went to the park, found a shady bench and ate a picnic lunch before returning to an annex of the Fabre that showcased decorative arts and grand salons.
After that we stumbled across two free photography exhibitions, one, by a Canadian photographer, Lynne Cohen, was particularly good and thought provoking and another, smaller one by a local photographer.
By mid afternoon we were quite tired and it was over 30 degrees - so we walked back to our apartment to rest up and wait for the temperature to drop before venturing out again. After a light meal and finishing a bottle of wine we walked along the banks of the river. Unfortunately Mrs B was bitten that evening (by insects) so her parting gift from Montpellier was a series of red lumps on her legs. The beasties really seemed to find her tasty.
Breakfast before we left was fresh croissants from the boulangerie just across the road - still warm and delicious. Montpellier had been a surprising city, full of beautiful art and architecture and with an unexpected vibrancy (and some tasty croissants) bt it was time to move on. We were now headed northwards - but stopping en route, with the mountains of the Auvergne region our next destination.
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| Departing the Pyrenees |
It was another very hot day, temperatures touching 34°c, so to break the journey we headed to the beach. Valras-Plage was a bustling little seaside town. The main pedestrian thoroughfare was lined with shops selling gifts, clothes and ice creams which opened on to a square on restaurants. Then the beach a flat expanse of sand on which thousands of holiday makers were basting themselves. I think if you like the sort of holiday that involves lying on a beach, getting a tan (or skin cancer) then this would be a great place. It was clean, and pleasant with a breeze that just about took the edge off the sun. I have never been one for sunbathing so the attractions of Valras-Plage were somewhat limited, but the marina set by the lagoon was quite picturesque.
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| The lagoon at Valras-Plage |
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| Panorama from the viewpoint outside Beziers cathedral |
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| Mrs B hugging the shade in a very hot Beziers |
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| Beziers |
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| Antigone - our apartment block on the right |
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| L'Arbre Blanc |
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| L'Egret Blanc |
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| Place de la Comedie and the Three Graces |
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| Quirky, historic Montpellier |
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| Montpellier Cathedral |
Near the cathedral was what is reckoned to be one of Western Europe's oldest medical schools. In 1180, the lord of the city, Guilhem VIII, proclaimed that “anyone, no matter their religion or roots, could teach medicine in Montpellier". It is still teaching medicine to this day. We had a sneak peek through the entrance doors. No-one was around but we thought best not to push our luck and left quietly - nobody the wiser.
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| The Medical School in Montpellier |
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| Water tower and aqueduct in Montpellier |
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| One of Vincent Bioulès abstract works... |
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| One of Vincent Bioulès more conventional works...(Mrs B approved) |
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| One of the salon rooms with another painting by Vincent Bioulès |
After that we stumbled across two free photography exhibitions, one, by a Canadian photographer, Lynne Cohen, was particularly good and thought provoking and another, smaller one by a local photographer.
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| Photography with a difference |
Breakfast before we left was fresh croissants from the boulangerie just across the road - still warm and delicious. Montpellier had been a surprising city, full of beautiful art and architecture and with an unexpected vibrancy (and some tasty croissants) bt it was time to move on. We were now headed northwards - but stopping en route, with the mountains of the Auvergne region our next destination.
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